BMW F650 Maintenance – Brakes – Part 2


Where I left off before going to get the rear tire mounted at BMW

I took the rear wheel down to the BMW dealership in North Hampton, NH and they mounted a new Metzler Tourance 17″ tire on the rim.  Balanced it. They always put in a new tube as well. The technician said the Tourance has an extremely stiff sidewall and the tire machine wouldn’t handle it and he had to fall back to using the spoons.

I said, “Yeah, they’re like concrete.”

He said, “No, concrete has some flex to it. These don’t have any.”

I knew what he was talking about because I had mounted the previous one myself, using the spoons. Well, that experience is why I wanted them to do it.

He said a Dunlop tire, for example, is much more flexible.

But here is a new concept for me. In case of a flat tire or nearly flat tire, I could probably ride on the Tourance with very little air in it. The technician said as much. It’d be tough to change beside the road, but I would be more likely to make it to a garage or home riding on it nearly flat.

I hope I don’t have to test this theory but, on the other hand, it would be good to know if that stiffness is worth anything in a pinch.

Next time around I might try something else. Not sure. I do like the idea of being able to reasonably get the tire off the rim myself and that’s not the case with the Metzler Tourance.

Brake caliper with new pads and new rotor


Before putting the wheel back on, I used a c clamp to move the brake piston back to make room for the new pads and disk. I had to loosen the bleeder valve before it would move. The bleeder valve is the thing with the rubber boot on it near the top left of the photo above. Take the boot off and open it a quarter turn. You should slip a hose over the end to let the brake fluid flow into a container instead of onto the swingarm, etc.

Supposedly, brake fluid will eat the paint off your bike. But I didn’t have a suitable bit of tubing handy, so I just washed it off afterwards. Of course, later, I came across just the right length and size of hose.

With the bleeder closed, I just slipped in the new pads and ran the retainer pin through them and put the spring clip back on. The copper colored parts are the new pads and you can see the retainer pin and spring clip above. With the pads in the caliper, I could slide the new disk in between them as the wheel went on. I had the chain looped over the swing-arm out of the way and after the wheel was more or less in place, there was just enough slack to slip the chain over the sprocket. It all takes a little finesse to make it happen.

By the way, I described the exact brake parts I bought in the previous post.


Wheel back on.

I decided to change the brake fluid. I started with the reservoir half full, opened the bleeder, depressed the pedal, closed the bleeder, let the pedal back up, and repeated until the reservoir was nearly empty. Added new fluid and repeated until the fluid coming out the bleeder looked clear. You can’t let the pedal up while the bleeder is open or it will suck air into the system.

I didn’t mention it earlier, but while the wheel was off I essentially swapped out the original links for lowering links. I had bought a used lowering kit for $150 on eBay which included the links, a shortened side stand and a shorter center stand.

I put on the new center stand and that works perfectly. The side stand was too short, so I put the original back on and it is just about right with the bike lowered. Before, it was too short IMO. I like the bike standing up and it’s now a little long but completely workable. Just be careful, as always, how I park it.


F650 back together and ready to roll. Winter muffs retired.

The seat is 2.5″ lower than the 32-inch original, and I am liking it so far. I didn’t touch the front end, so the steering is a little slower, which I like anyway. The wind coming over the windshield hits me in the middle of the helmet instead of the chin and throat, and a taller aftermarket screen might throw it entirely over my head.

EBC says I need to “bed” the pads and rotor by taking it easy on the brakes for awhile, while applying them often in varying conditions.

My rear brake repair is now complete and I got some other nice improvements while I was at it.

Rear Brakes: $200, Lowering Kit: $150, Rear Tire/Tube mounted and balanced: $230